Myth and water around Lamezia Terme, Calabria, Italy

Dense forests harbor wild boar.

Free bathing at roadside spring at Caronte.

We've been using Calabria as a back door to Sicily for a few years, preferring direct flights to Lamezia Terme to non-direct flights to Palermo.  Car rental is a lot easier at Lamezia, too.
This time we stayed in the area for a few days to decompress and explore.  Our first stop is always the quiet train station mensa to eat, then La Mimosa on the Caronte mountain just outside town.  La Mimosa's rooms are modest but everything works, the staff are accommodating and the food a favorite with locals including the police.

La Mimosa hotel, ristorante & pizzeria.

 This time we took a short walk up the hill to get our flight kinks blissfully pummelled out with scented hydromassage at Terme Caronte.  Now a big modern spa authorized by the government to provide health services, Terme Caronte has been offering water cures since 1716.

The spa's symbol is Caronte (or Charon) himself, the boatman of Greek myth who ferries the dead across the Styx.  There are free spots to soak alongside the road just opposite the spa and here, near the source, it is easy to imagine Charon poling his way across the Hades-hot, underground river.

Unofficial soaking spot closer to the source.

If you'd like to jump in the ocean, the big bay of the Golfo di S. Eufemia is not far. Hotels and restaurants adorn the Gizzeria and Falerna lidos but clues to the area's hardscrabble past are not hard to find.

Between Calabria and Sicily.  Between a rock and a hard place.  The Straits of Messina have an ancient myth of their own but that's a tale for my next post.

Scilla, Calabria, with the Straits and Sicily beyond.

Scarborough Bluffs, Toronto, Ontario

Why join the mass weekend exodus on  packed highways to cottage country when here in Toronto we're already on beautiful Lake Ontario with miles of coastline and plenty of clean, swimmable beaches?

This summer I've found myself many an evening in Toronto's east end at the Scarborough Bluffs, wading through wildflowers on top of Cathedral Bluffs with a walking buddy, having a drink in the Dogfish Pub at the marina or enjoying the breeze on the beach with the seagulls and Pat. A favorite daydream of mine: deciding which of the cute little houseboats I'd choose for myself, given the chance (haven't seen a "for sale" sign yet!). Wildlife--from red foxes to waterfowl to a feral cat colony--thrives. Just blocks from home yet a world away, we find ourselves marvelling that it's very hard to believe we're still in the 416 area code.

Though often used as a shooting location by Toronto's film industry and noted by Frommer's as unique in North America, the 14 km-long Scarborough Bluffs remain one of the city's best-kept secret beauty spots. See what you may have missed by taking a virtual tour of Toronto's miles of waterfront here. And unlike provincial and federal parks, access to Toronto's parks and beaches is completely free of charge. Beautiful!

Oh, Ottawa!

Four days in Ottawa last week--which I almost backed out of for fear I'd be bored--wasn't enough as I ran out of days and nights before I ran out of things to do.

Toronto Mayor Miller recently asked: who would want to live in Ottawa? Well, I wouldn't mind. Perhaps it takes a Torontonian to appreciate public waterfront that hasn't been zoned residential, stunning new cultural buildings, uncrowded recreational trails with straightaways you can really get up some speed on, grand public spaces, good shopping, clean pavements and even cleaner air.

It's a very walkable (and bikeable) city and it was a pleasure to stroll from one museum to the next. Moshe Safdie's landmark National Gallery of Canada I'd seen before; it has one of Louise Bourgeois' giant spider sculptures in its plaza. I caught the pop-scary Camouflage: from battlefield to catwalk show (direct from London) at the five-year-old Canadian War Museum, Raymond Moriyama's sombre stunner.
The biggest revelation for me was the Canadian Museum of Civilization. Pictures really can't do this building--by Canadian Native (of Metis and Blackfoot heritage) architect Douglas Cardinal--justice. From the outside it appears part of the riverbank landscape, carved by wind and glaciers. Inside it is massive, soaring, and holds beautiful artifacts from Canada's 20,000 years of human habitation. Seeing the giant, weathered Haida totem poles in person was a revelation.

If all this wasn't enough, the Canadian Tulip Festival opened while we were there. Three million bulbs in bloom.  Where are you going to see something like this outside of Holland?  Ottawa is a great place to wander, relax, breathe and dream.

While I didn't cry when we left Ottawa, five hours in a rental car did eventually bring tears to my eyes. Next time I'll take the train!